Technique

Enameling is the process of melting glass on metal. Cloisonné enameling
is an ancient technique in which thin strips of metal wire are used to
separate color areas. Enamel powders (a type of glass formulated to bond
with the base metal) are applied between the wires in thin layers,
firing each layer at around 1,450 degrees Farenheit. When the height
of the enamel reaches the height of the wire, the surface is ground
smooth to expose all of the wires and then either fired for a glossy finish
or polished for a more subtle effect.

I make my cloisonné jewelry using the traditional approach: bend wires,
paint enamel layers, grind the surface level; I take a more contemporary
approach to design and imagery. Colors are applied intuitively and freely.
Pieces of silver and gold wire or foil are sandwiched between enamel layers
to create textures and patterns of light. I've developed various techniques
which help to make my colors have an incredible depth and brilliance.
The colors seem to glow from within. Enamel lumps or powders are ground
in a mortar and pestle to a fine consistency, and then painstakingly applied
with a tiny paintbrush. Each enamel piece is fired from 10-15 times.
When the enamel surface reaches the top of the wire, I grind and finish
the surface so that it feels and looks like a polished gemstone. Next comes
the fabrication of the jewelry setting. Using 22 karat and 18 karat gold,
or sometimes silver, a bezel rim is made individually for each enamel.
Finally, the enamel is placed into the setting and burnished tightly.
The whole piece is buffed, and the jewelry piece is complete.